Building a wooden cabinet
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This cabinet was designed for the living room to hold our modem/router and NAS on the lower shelf, covered by a door and with a drawer above. The back is open to allow cables to enter and for airflow, but apart from this slighly unsual feature it could be used as a general side cabinet or bedside table.

I’ve been dabbling in woodworking over the last few months and designed this cabinet to practice and test out some of the skills. It has frame and panel sides, with mortise and tenon joints throughout. The drawer has blind dovetails on the front and a dado on the back (my first attempt at both of these joints). The main body is made of pine (to keep costs down) with tasmanian oak for the top, drawer front and the door frame (another first, working with a hardwood).

The whole project was done with hand tools only: a no. 4 plane, a few chisels, a 26” hand saw and a small gents saw.

Building the frame

The body is composed of 2 frame and panel pieces on either side, with simple rails running across the front and the back to tie them together. Mortise and tenon joints are used throughout, and the panels in the sides are tongue and grooved and floating in the side frames. The base of the shelf is made of solid pine laminated into a board. The legs are 2 laminated 19mm thick pieces to be roughly 38x38mm.

Cutting mortises in the frame legs
Cutting mortises in the frame legs
Cutting the tenons
Cutting the tenons
Rough cut tenon, needs to be cleaned up with a chisel
Rough cut tenon, needs to be cleaned up with a chisel
Test fitting
Test fitting
Cutting the groove for the side panel to fit in. I don't have a plough plane, so this was cut by hand with a chisel
Cutting the groove for the side panel to fit in. I don't have a plough plane, so this was cut by hand with a chisel
Test fitting the panel into the frame (before the bevel was cut in the panel)
Test fitting the panel into the frame (before the bevel was cut in the panel)
Panel tongue and bevel finished
Panel tongue and bevel finished
Test fit
Test fit
Laminating boards to make the base. All the pieces ready to assemble on the left
Laminating boards to make the base. All the pieces ready to assemble on the left
Glueing one of the side panels
Glueing one of the side panels
Final glue-up of the 2 side panels with front and back rails
Final glue-up of the 2 side panels with front and back rails
Base cut to size with cutouts at the back to fit around the rear legs
Base cut to size with cutouts at the back to fit around the rear legs
The base just sits on 4 rails underneath it on the frame. Since these will not be seen, they are just screwed in place
The base just sits on 4 rails underneath it on the frame. Since these will not be seen, they are just screwed in place
The top is attached with figure 8 clips recessed into the top of the frame so the top is flush with the top of the frame
The top is attached with figure 8 clips recessed into the top of the frame so the top is flush with the top of the frame
Figure 8 clips recessed into the frame
Figure 8 clips recessed into the frame
Finished with boiled inseed oil, and test fitting the top (top laminated and cut to size, but not bevelled yet)
Finished with boiled inseed oil, and test fitting the top (top laminated and cut to size, but not bevelled yet)
The top is made of 5 90mm x 19mm boards laminated together. Once glued, the edges were bevelled to match the styling on the panels
The top is made of 5 90mm x 19mm boards laminated together. Once glued, the edges were bevelled to match the styling on the panels

Building the drawer

The drawer is flush mounted with the front of the frame, with half-blind dovetails on the front, and a dado joint on the back with a solid wood base. The front is made of tasmanian oak, and the rest is pine.

Sides

Cut a rebate on the inside of the drawer sides
Cut a rebate on the inside of the drawer sides
Mark and cut the dovetails on the sides
Mark and cut the dovetails on the sides
Chisel out the waste, alternating between chopping down, and removing the waste
Chisel out the waste, alternating between chopping down, and removing the waste
Chisel out the waste
Chisel out the waste
Completed dovetails
Completed dovetails

Front

Transfer dovetail sizes to the front
Transfer dovetail sizes to the front
Pins marked on the front panel
Pins marked on the front panel
Cut the pins at a 45 degree angle to avoid cutting through the front
Cut the pins at a 45 degree angle to avoid cutting through the front
Chisel out the waste
Chisel out the waste
Completed pins
Completed pins
Test fit
Test fit

Back

Cutting a recess for the base to sit in. I don't have a plough plane, so this was done by hand with a chisel
Cutting a recess for the base to sit in. I don't have a plough plane, so this was done by hand with a chisel
Cutting the dado
Cutting the dado
Test fit dado
Test fit dado
Dado complete and base fitted. The grain of the base runs side so side so expansion occurs front to back
Dado complete and base fitted. The grain of the base runs side so side so expansion occurs front to back
The base is not glued and only attached with 3 screws at the back, with elongated holes to allow for wood movement.
The base is not glued and only attached with 3 screws at the back, with elongated holes to allow for wood movement.
Completed drawer
Completed drawer

Fitting the drawer

I made a simple frame for the drawer to slide on and attached it to the inside of the base
I made a simple frame for the drawer to slide on and attached it to the inside of the base
It will not be seen, so it is screwed and glued
It will not be seen, so it is screwed and glued
Flush fit drawer front
Flush fit drawer front
Fitted drawer
Fitted drawer

Door

The door on the lower shelf is a frame and panel design, similar to the side panels except that the frame is made of tasmanian oak to match the top and drawer front, and the panel is pine for contrast. The frame is mortise/tenon again, and the panel is tongue/groove with a bevel on the front. In this case, I don’t want the panel to protrude from the frame, so I had to plane off the front of the panel until it was flush with the frame.

Door stile mortises
Door stile mortises
Planing the bevel on the door panel
Planing the bevel on the door panel
Door components cut and test fitted, ready to glue
Door components cut and test fitted, ready to glue
Glueing the door
Glueing the door
Clamping the door while the glue dries
Clamping the door while the glue dries

Final Assembly

With the door complete, it was attached with some brass flush mount hinges and the entire piece was finished with a coat of boiled linseed oil and cabinet makers wax. The only remaining step is to fit some handles to the drawer and the door - I’m not sure what style I’m looking for yet, so for now it will have to wait.

Overall, I am quite happy with how it has turned out. I particularly like the look of the tasmanian oak with boiled linseed oil. It changes colour depending on the angle of the light, as can be seen in the picture below, sometimes very light almost like the pine, sometimes dark reddish brown and sometimes a slightly pink colour. Time will tell how well the joinery holds up over the years, which is the real test of the work.

finished
finished